Two weeks of walking around Kos as part of my fitness regime…..Whose Kidding? As quite rightly Missy puts up with us stopping for lunch, ice cream, picnics etc. You can’t help but notice the difference between the UK where I live and Kos. The quality of the light, sound and smells. It’s as if Greece is crystal clear, each individual sound audible and recognisable, each aroma distinct and the visibility crisp .
I went for Easter but was not prepared for the Firecrackers and sticks of dynamite dropped here and there,nearly bursting my ear drums, quite thought I’d be left with tinnitus as they let them off in the street right in front of me cracking windows despite taping them. The bells could be heard resounding around the village as they called for prayer, marriage, baptisms and burials and the Liturgy so clear that any crack in a voice from chanting for so long couldn't be missed as it echoed round the village.
Not sure the cockerels know when first thing in the morning is as they crow and clack and the dogs bark, the cats screech and the donkeys bray like some kind of choir. The scooters squeal and the woman shout to each other never sure whether they are arguing or just passing the time of day. But the sound is clear and unmistakable.
The further out of the Village you go the street noise gets left behind and the sound of the countryside takes over. Bees hum as they take advantage of the wild flowers. Drive up the hairy road to Agios Ioannis (Not yet ready for the season)the sound of silence is broken only by the sound of waves on the shore line so far below.
Go up by the windfarm and the gentle whoosh of the arms as they rotate contrast with the bleat of the goats as they follow their mothers. Their bells chink as they clamber across the rocks foraging for food or follow the shepherds.
The sheep bah as they too follow the shepherds or shelter from the sun under the trees.
But in the castle of Antimachia silence. Peaceful , full of life, insects, lizards, butterflies and birds yet silent. Perhaps the Ancients like it that way, hints of ghosts watching and waiting, curious about their visitors must have thought us picnicking in the ruins a bit strange but it was worth it and we were silent.