After years of
holidaying on Kos and enjoying every moment, time seems to have stood
still over the last ten years as we wove our way through Greek
bureaucracy in order to build our house. A trip to Kos town was never
a 'let's wander round the ruins' or spend time mooching through the
Agora as the aromas of herbs, spices and natural perfumes assault the
senses as we once did. So this past week has been spent with my old
friend and colleague staying as my first guest in my new home and I
have been plunged into tourist mode with of course years of
background knowledge.
I will be in need of a
rest and am longing for a Siesta but yesterday we went to Nisyros.
Gone are the days of the coaches negotiating the hair-pin bends as
one driver passed the other, although still the little memorial
churches hug the hairiest corners. 'Panagia Mou'. Kamari Boats left
promtly and sped its' way into Mandraki Harbour. First Boat in and
straight onboard the No. 1 Bus as soon as my feet hit terra-ferma I
was back on an air conditioned Coach with no time to get my Sea
Legs. 6 euros return such good value. As the coach negotiated the
tight corners and we rose ever onwards and upwards the landscape was
festooned like Tinsel on a Christmas tree with hand built stone walls
layering the landscape in terraces as far as the eye could see where
trees and shrubs held the soil. Beautiful landscape and I couldn't
help but wonder how it was formed , do you layer top down or down up?
Birds hovered and
insects flew ever higher as we climbed and not a car or bike in sight
nor strangely enough Goats or Sheep. We stopped in Nikia a small
mountain side village, a chocolate box of white two story houses with
bright painted doors or window frames and blocks of colour built on
narrow streets, with steps going off up either side to more houses
but streets no wider than people or bike width. With everyday life
still continuing and locals walking against the tide of the Number
One Bus down to the square for the Fresh Veg Lady you couldn't help
but admire their patience as how many more bus loads of people would
be doing this daily throughout the season. So with amazing views over
the edge and down into the crater we had a great vantage point for
photography. I will go back and capture the Landscape on film as
opposed to Stan in every shot. Forty minutes later back on the bus
and down to the crater of Stephanos. No waiting for passengers dilly
dallying, no time for the schedule was tight.
As we dropped down to
the crater the views were spectacular as long as I didn't look down.
Still the terraced walls continued down until they met the great
rocks shining with sulphur and glistening in the light. Barren and
desolate I stayed in the small cafe area for Frappe whilst
occasionally walking to the edge to photo Stan the Man walking down
to the very centre of the earth to see pockets of tiny sulphur
bubbles. And as I sat and pondered the meaning of life and hoped the
volcano wouldn't decide to become active after so many years dormant
dragonflies flitted from shrub to shrub don't they need water? And as
before prompt on the dot Number One Bus left the site back down to
Mandraki
Winding back down round
and round I could clearly see Kos, Gaili and other islands in the
distance and sea, blue the colour of ink topped with choppy white
waves. The cafes and Tavernas too hug the water front protected from
the rocks and waves with miniscule beaches two umbrellas wide. As we
wondered through business as usual vehicles small enough to work in
the streets, bikes perched on steps designed as a rack. Washing lines
projected out from the upstairs balconies, steps jutting out at
random to access postage size bits of garden with Fig and Pomegranate
trees. On every corner step and stairwell cats lay sunbathing,
washing or scrapping for food. The houses perched ever higher and
higher onward and upward with intricate mosaic pebbled doorsteps of
seabirds, dolphins and flowers. A beautiful place to visit. Then back
to the harbour and 3.15 prompt up anchor and away.
