Too early for the Post Office

That's good Post offices open at 7.30 on Kos or that's what the Website said. I'll just nip up to the Village bright and early, no one around but me and the cats. So as I drew up to park by Mylotipi overlooking the view of Kamari Bay I shared my space with the Garbage Truck and the driver eating his breakfast and smoking a fag as he sat on the edge contemplating his day. With morning dew still fresh on the cars and damp air I alone walked round the Village. Cats still slept in corners and on steps and as I strode round past the old school two men in the Kafeneion said Kalimera.

The only sound was that of doves cooing from above and as I came towards the post office eager to be the first in side I spotted a gathering of men already in the Old Gits Club warming up for the day. Aha somebody is in the post office but as I walked towards the door I noticed 9-2.30 oh woe is me. How can I escape ridicule and laughter as a solitary English Woman clutching her handbag and paperwork is walking purposefully towards a closed door at silly o'clock.

I know I'll just cut through the back streets and no one will see me. But wrong . The Bewitching hour of morning is when all the Olds come out. Shopping, hanging out the washing, drinking coffee outside whilst sitting on their back step talking to neighbours. Mums putting babies in prams ready to take to Yiayia to look after for the day. A row of ladies sat under the concrete frame of a new building ready to be constructed (some when) sharing the space with a car, motorbikes and old barbecue barrels. Kalimera.......Kalimera........ No chance of an invisible walk back to the car.

And as I approached the car down the steps I had to avert my eyes as the soul of discretion not, the Garbage man had chosen that very moment to have a crafty pee over the side. I pretended to admire the Morning Glory just opened out on the walls beside. As I drove back down through the sleepy Kefalos I noticed the neighbours new goat had chosen to ignore his pile of carefully selected vegetation and had jumped over their wall and was noshing on their geraniums. Too early for a morning call from me I thought better go home and write this down.

Nisyros day out

After years of holidaying on Kos and enjoying every moment, time seems to have stood still over the last ten years as we wove our way through Greek bureaucracy in order to build our house. A trip to Kos town was never a 'let's wander round the ruins' or spend time mooching through the Agora as the aromas of herbs, spices and natural perfumes assault the senses as we once did. So this past week has been spent with my old friend and colleague staying as my first guest in my new home and I have been plunged into tourist mode with of course years of background knowledge.

I will be in need of a rest and am longing for a Siesta but yesterday we went to Nisyros. Gone are the days of the coaches negotiating the hair-pin bends as one driver passed the other, although still the little memorial churches hug the hairiest corners. 'Panagia Mou'. Kamari Boats left promtly and sped its' way into Mandraki Harbour. First Boat in and straight onboard the No. 1 Bus as soon as my feet hit terra-ferma I was back on an air conditioned Coach with no time to get my Sea Legs. 6 euros return such good value. As the coach negotiated the tight corners and we rose ever onwards and upwards the landscape was festooned like Tinsel on a Christmas tree with hand built stone walls layering the landscape in terraces as far as the eye could see where trees and shrubs held the soil. Beautiful landscape and I couldn't help but wonder how it was formed , do you layer top down or down up?

Birds hovered and insects flew ever higher as we climbed and not a car or bike in sight nor strangely enough Goats or Sheep. We stopped in Nikia a small mountain side village, a chocolate box of white two story houses with bright painted doors or window frames and blocks of colour built on narrow streets, with steps going off up either side to more houses but streets no wider than people or bike width. With everyday life still continuing and locals walking against the tide of the Number One Bus down to the square for the Fresh Veg Lady you couldn't help but admire their patience as how many more bus loads of people would be doing this daily throughout the season. So with amazing views over the edge and down into the crater we had a great vantage point for photography. I will go back and capture the Landscape on film as opposed to Stan in every shot. Forty minutes later back on the bus and down to the crater of Stephanos. No waiting for passengers dilly dallying, no time for the schedule was tight.

As we dropped down to the crater the views were spectacular as long as I didn't look down. Still the terraced walls continued down until they met the great rocks shining with sulphur and glistening in the light. Barren and desolate I stayed in the small cafe area for Frappe whilst occasionally walking to the edge to photo Stan the Man walking down to the very centre of the earth to see pockets of tiny sulphur bubbles. And as I sat and pondered the meaning of life and hoped the volcano wouldn't decide to become active after so many years dormant dragonflies flitted from shrub to shrub don't they need water? And as before prompt on the dot Number One Bus left the site back down to Mandraki

Winding back down round and round I could clearly see Kos, Gaili and other islands in the distance and sea, blue the colour of ink topped with choppy white waves. The cafes and Tavernas too hug the water front protected from the rocks and waves with miniscule beaches two umbrellas wide. As we wondered through business as usual vehicles small enough to work in the streets, bikes perched on steps designed as a rack. Washing lines projected out from the upstairs balconies, steps jutting out at random to access postage size bits of garden with Fig and Pomegranate trees. On every corner step and stairwell cats lay sunbathing, washing or scrapping for food. The houses perched ever higher and higher onward and upward with intricate mosaic pebbled doorsteps of seabirds, dolphins and flowers. A beautiful place to visit. Then back to the harbour and 3.15 prompt up anchor and away.