Christmas is coming

I feel I’ve been stalked by Santa and his little helpers. Popped into Select for a few bits and bobs and as I parked up several reindeer stared back out, surrounded by tinsel and glitter, Santa’s in many sizes and other Christmas characters. Special disported Candy Canes and edible baubles and in Louis I was lead upstairs by Santas on every step like a scene from a Fred Astaire movie and I was Ginger Rogers. With winter on the horizon and forever mindful of cold coming the other side of the stairs had electric blankets, just in case among other things. As we walked back through Kardamena , although closed the Pink Elephant was unpacking its Xmas stock. At least Jingle Bells wasn’t being played or Sleigh Bells in the Snow, Can’t imagine it as I am still in t-shirt and shorts. I spoke too soon as the season's begun to change , wet windy, gale blowing and sun still filtering through the sky.

As Kos got closer to to Christmas more lights appeared, more shops festooned with decorations and Street lights made ready for heralding Christmas in.

So a strange sort of Sunday, bright and crisp and my bread making task took so long it was lunchtime before I knew it. Miranda appeared to be having a festive time in Kos town and I was feeling a bit out of kilter. So I persuaded Christine a walk on the beach was a good plan and we had it all to ourselves so when I returned home had to take a second look as I drove past the Dotto train heading up the Hill. Bit weird I thought.....where was it in the Summer? So just got indoors when my Greek Family arrived bearing gifts and wanting a tour of the house and as per usual I quickly went ahead of the group shoving things in drawers and behind doors. I hadn't even done the washing up. Anyway 'Xmas tree gets lit tonight' they said.

So up I went and dragged Christine out again. The Dotto train flashed by like in a Harry Potter movie with kids waving at everyone. Families stood eagerly around with toddlers wearing headbands with reindeer, elves and Christmas trees. Testing, testing again as some man eagerly hugged the microphone , stopping his trial as the brass band marched into the Centre. Father Christmas stood by as the dignitaries announced the proceedings. With not too much Greek I did understand Face Painting and Balloon animals. As we neared the time for the Big reveal the Kids counted down 10, 9,8,7,6,5,4,3,2,1 and as if by magic the Tree lit up and the fireworks went off. Laughter and joy filled the air and I felt a tingle of nostalgia and goose bumps. They were so excited.

Families looked on as small children gathered round and Father Christmas and his little helper did a Jive.......what can I say. I hope you enjoy the video. The village square once again the centre of things and hub of all activity eventually emptied out with small children clutching balloon animals as they went home.

21st December and nearly there so Five O'clock seemed a little early as we walked up along the High Street. Store holders were getting ready, displaying their wares, lighting barbecue pits and grills and smoke from charcoal burning filled the air. Locals began to walk through, strolling with ease from the Old School down to Diporto and back where the Brits Abroad had their Tombola Pitch. As darkness crept in, the lights on the displays grew bright in contrast and the Villagers came out. Some dressed in Evening Best with high heels tottering over the stones. Others dressed for winter warmth wrapped in thick coats and boots or trainers , although the night was warm. Christmas deeley boppers crowned the heads of all ages as trees, angels, snowmen, snowflakes bobbed along and small children, grown ups and olds enjoyed the event. Two elderly ladies sat on their doorstep watching the world go by and Yiassou, Kala, eseis, tikaneis was spoken all around.

Xmas Carols played out from various doorways , in competition from one end of the street to another, no wonder the elderly man in his one room house had his doors open and sat with a ringside seat for all to see. Teens meandered here and there eating, chatting and in some cases flirting a true case of Promenading. Small children were keen to get their Faces painted and choose a small tattoo for their arms. Bendy balloons and giant unicorns and aliens hovered overhead. Minnie and Micky ambushed people for photographs and Santa waited for his mugshot too.

Souvlaki competed with Corn on the Cob, Candy Floss and toffee apples, mulled wine and cake were just a few tasty treats on offer. Christmas decorations, Icons, bracelets, Fresh Bread, Candles, Sugar sweets were being sold in aid of charity and many more goodies. The Football Stand was popular with the teenagers. Shop fronts were dressed for Christmas and even the dress shop dog had his Santa outfit (grumpy as ever).

The choir gathered on the Church steps, one by one and the teacher in charge was clearly frustrated by their disjointed arrival and each time he set up their standing positions he had to change it judging by the height of the late comer. 'Jack Black' was there setting up the sound system and why oh why he hadn't done it earlier as half an hour in and we were still waiting. The Band marched through and the Band marched back as the crowds parted to let them through. Loud enough to be heard without sound equipment they took the steps and played. The Bazaar was formerly announced open and I went home. 

Birthday

After the invite to party at Carmela for my birthday from my hairdresser Sotiris should I re-think my schedule. Mmmmm I think not long gone are the days of staying up late and partying hard. I decided to stay with the 7o'clock slot just after the Kids Pizza party.The streets were empty save for the cars and scooters parked haphazardly here and there, so able to capture the Christmas lights.

As I walked towards Diporto it became clear that all the men were in the bars and kafeneions around the square, ready in waiting for the Big Match and soon the Xmas lights were in competion with the Big Screens and only the children were running around outside shaking off the effects of Coke and Pizza. As the game got going the excitement of the play required a fag and soon the inside seats were vacated for standing room only outside as eager fans watched from the pavement, victims of the cigarette and vape ban, just as it started to rain.

Did I care? No I but was left alone a few times to chill and drink wine as my friends joined the smoking corner. Apologies for the fans sitting behind me as commentary was interrupted by a rendition of Happy Birthday to you played courtesy of the establishment as they brought out my yummy birthday cake that Christine had bought earlier. And sorry that Happy Birthday continued to play on the loop for several times. No wonder our section of the restaurant emptied out. The street life was a different scene on the way back to the car and I'm sure I was home before my curfew.

All the worlds a stage and minded of my previous life I watched it pass by as Teenagers trundled down the Epar Road as I breakfasted on local fruit, yoghurt and honey. The procession of kids made their way to who knows where or why but some were in a hurry, some sauntered, some rode their bikes precariously weaving in and out as traffic past. The teachers seemingly trying to keep order by staying on the outside were well spaced out. A few kids hurried to catch up, running past the group as if they wouldn't be missed but had probably nipped behind the boat near the Hermes for a fag. The boys joshing and wacking each other as they bantered with each other. I honed in on the girls, the ones dressed in brighter colours than the rest, flicking their newly coifuured hair, the look at me girls, those that twiddle their earings to accentuate their femininity hoping to be noticed. Several slower boys wandered down apart from the others, maybe less fit, less popular, shy who knows?I nearly wished I was back teaching but thought better of it.I bet those Greek Boys and Girls weren't telling the teachers to Fuck Off.

I'm going to have to get fit myself as that hill up to Kefalos appears to be no obstacle and the highway to everywhere.

not long now

As the tourists are melting away the Island is returning to the locals more time for leisure is transparent. The Cycle club took off at speed along the Epar road not worried about mowing down tourists. Dressed in lycra with helmets it must be getting cooler. The English School group marched  down the hill all dressed in Red uniform and swinging their arms in time, thought they might have been a Scout or Cubs group, whilst some walked others rode their bikes.

The Sunday football fixture in Kos town saw small children in their football kit excited and ready to be picked up for 'The Game of the Season'. As I walked along the seafront Greek fishermen sit patiently waiting with their rods to catch dinner for the day. Rod in one hand fag in the other. Whilst others bashed the living daylights out of their Octopus.

As the restaurants empty out the space is taken up by Greek men chatting, socialising, drinking coffee. Siga siga. To watch is fascinating as much is said without words as with. Shrug of the shoulder, nod of the head up or down, sideways, tutt, eyebrows lifted, hands open , closed , up down, circled, so many movements conveying so much and the pitch of speech happy, sad, angry, punctuated with malaka........not swigging beer but eating slowly, slowly. Who needs words?

The chickens have taken back the road and as I passed Kritikos a big rooster and his groupies were trying to persuade a tourist that eating cake by the trolleys was a treat to be shared. As he strutted about and pumped himself up he made it quite clear who was boss and not to be messed with and was rewarded with swiss roll and other picnic items as the man swiftly departed. I guess there are fewer coaches now driving into the airport so safer to cross. 

As for the women I guess their time will come, but so far today those I've seen have been wearing rubber gloves, weeding, scrubbing floors and washing windows and busying themselves with chores and one elderly lady was swinging a mattock pick at the overgrown grass around her pathway. Not long now.

widows weeds

Lying on my bed after an evening out dining with friends, reflecting on my day, I am mindful that I now too am dinner for those bloody mosquitos seemingly immune to the aroma of Citronella. Not to be beaten I lay awake pretending to be reading until the blighters approached, tempted by the storyline on my Kindle and then mystified by the text I squashed them. Sorry Tablet but will clean you in the morning.

What I want to know is who buys the Clothes off the Yellow transit van. 'μπλούζες, παντελόνι

,παπούτσια,' He calls as he weaves his way in and out of the narrow back streets of Kefalos. And as if scurrying way to hide little old ladies disappear around the corner just as he turns the other. I'm sure it's the same woman, little, shapeless black shift dress, headscarf and flat shoes or short cut Bob so similar from behind you could turn them into lego characters.

So who buys these clothes? Surely not designer labels, how many sizes does he carry? What colour combination or is that a silly question, perhaps he specialises in the Widow's weeds. But no yesterday he followed me to Tingaki disporting glitzy, sparkly numbers must have known my widowhood hasn't followed traditional Black. I too scurried away, but fancy next time I will boldly go over and try a few outfits as I am curious to know what Blouse, Trousers or shoes I can Buy.

I can see you

At last a passenger enjoying the view I shouted 'Stop!' as we drove past the school at Antimachia. Once a teacher always teacher as my Radar honed in on three boys having a sneaky fag at the back of the bike sheds. Always on the alert for the naughties, years of working in a pupil referral unit had taken its toll and It turned out to be a day of now you see me now you don't

First stop, the Springs at Antimachia so near to the road yet hidden from view. As we descended down the rough hewn steps , dodging trailing stems of prickly plants the pervading smell of wild mint abounded and the roots entangled all the undergrowth about. The nearer to the source the soggier underfoot and even now wellies would have been better. This quiet watery glade looked like something from a film set long since abandoned yet ready to spring to life the moment out backs were turned. The sign long since covered by the plants taking back their space. As we returned to the car and looked back you couldn't help feel things were heaving a sigh of relief.

On to Antimachia Castle where the stage had been set centuries before and the end of the tourist season meant fewer and fewer people retraced the steps of the ancients. Another stage set background of silence yet heralding back to the sounds of Masons working on the stones, farmers tending their crops and rearing their animals. Knights Templars practicing their art of warfare, forever on the look out to defend their Island, just as the lizards today were forever hovering underfoot and darting away at the last moment. Abandoned stone buildings, crumbling rocks and dried , dying vegetation with hints of new growth peering through, nourished by the Autumn dew.

Lunch of course in Mastichari where the end of the season was evident as waiters vied for fewer and fewer tourists and the three of us dined alone before setting off for the Garden of Hippocrates.

The back route running parrallel with the sea, clear of cars all but the garbage truck soon had us bouncing along the dirt road flattened by tyres with deep tread and with teeth juddering we made it to the carpark. A remarkable place of silence, serene in its portrayal of days gone by and still the lizards watched and warmed themselves on rocks and stone steps before running ahead. The school room awaits the children after the tourists have gone. Time to learn about Hippoctratis, ancient medicines from herbs and flowers and chance to act and play on the stage and read poems and recite prose.

Too early for the Post Office

That's good Post offices open at 7.30 on Kos or that's what the Website said. I'll just nip up to the Village bright and early, no one around but me and the cats. So as I drew up to park by Mylotipi overlooking the view of Kamari Bay I shared my space with the Garbage Truck and the driver eating his breakfast and smoking a fag as he sat on the edge contemplating his day. With morning dew still fresh on the cars and damp air I alone walked round the Village. Cats still slept in corners and on steps and as I strode round past the old school two men in the Kafeneion said Kalimera.

The only sound was that of doves cooing from above and as I came towards the post office eager to be the first in side I spotted a gathering of men already in the Old Gits Club warming up for the day. Aha somebody is in the post office but as I walked towards the door I noticed 9-2.30 oh woe is me. How can I escape ridicule and laughter as a solitary English Woman clutching her handbag and paperwork is walking purposefully towards a closed door at silly o'clock.

I know I'll just cut through the back streets and no one will see me. But wrong . The Bewitching hour of morning is when all the Olds come out. Shopping, hanging out the washing, drinking coffee outside whilst sitting on their back step talking to neighbours. Mums putting babies in prams ready to take to Yiayia to look after for the day. A row of ladies sat under the concrete frame of a new building ready to be constructed (some when) sharing the space with a car, motorbikes and old barbecue barrels. Kalimera.......Kalimera........ No chance of an invisible walk back to the car.

And as I approached the car down the steps I had to avert my eyes as the soul of discretion not, the Garbage man had chosen that very moment to have a crafty pee over the side. I pretended to admire the Morning Glory just opened out on the walls beside. As I drove back down through the sleepy Kefalos I noticed the neighbours new goat had chosen to ignore his pile of carefully selected vegetation and had jumped over their wall and was noshing on their geraniums. Too early for a morning call from me I thought better go home and write this down.

Nisyros day out

After years of holidaying on Kos and enjoying every moment, time seems to have stood still over the last ten years as we wove our way through Greek bureaucracy in order to build our house. A trip to Kos town was never a 'let's wander round the ruins' or spend time mooching through the Agora as the aromas of herbs, spices and natural perfumes assault the senses as we once did. So this past week has been spent with my old friend and colleague staying as my first guest in my new home and I have been plunged into tourist mode with of course years of background knowledge.

I will be in need of a rest and am longing for a Siesta but yesterday we went to Nisyros. Gone are the days of the coaches negotiating the hair-pin bends as one driver passed the other, although still the little memorial churches hug the hairiest corners. 'Panagia Mou'. Kamari Boats left promtly and sped its' way into Mandraki Harbour. First Boat in and straight onboard the No. 1 Bus as soon as my feet hit terra-ferma I was back on an air conditioned Coach with no time to get my Sea Legs. 6 euros return such good value. As the coach negotiated the tight corners and we rose ever onwards and upwards the landscape was festooned like Tinsel on a Christmas tree with hand built stone walls layering the landscape in terraces as far as the eye could see where trees and shrubs held the soil. Beautiful landscape and I couldn't help but wonder how it was formed , do you layer top down or down up?

Birds hovered and insects flew ever higher as we climbed and not a car or bike in sight nor strangely enough Goats or Sheep. We stopped in Nikia a small mountain side village, a chocolate box of white two story houses with bright painted doors or window frames and blocks of colour built on narrow streets, with steps going off up either side to more houses but streets no wider than people or bike width. With everyday life still continuing and locals walking against the tide of the Number One Bus down to the square for the Fresh Veg Lady you couldn't help but admire their patience as how many more bus loads of people would be doing this daily throughout the season. So with amazing views over the edge and down into the crater we had a great vantage point for photography. I will go back and capture the Landscape on film as opposed to Stan in every shot. Forty minutes later back on the bus and down to the crater of Stephanos. No waiting for passengers dilly dallying, no time for the schedule was tight.

As we dropped down to the crater the views were spectacular as long as I didn't look down. Still the terraced walls continued down until they met the great rocks shining with sulphur and glistening in the light. Barren and desolate I stayed in the small cafe area for Frappe whilst occasionally walking to the edge to photo Stan the Man walking down to the very centre of the earth to see pockets of tiny sulphur bubbles. And as I sat and pondered the meaning of life and hoped the volcano wouldn't decide to become active after so many years dormant dragonflies flitted from shrub to shrub don't they need water? And as before prompt on the dot Number One Bus left the site back down to Mandraki

Winding back down round and round I could clearly see Kos, Gaili and other islands in the distance and sea, blue the colour of ink topped with choppy white waves. The cafes and Tavernas too hug the water front protected from the rocks and waves with miniscule beaches two umbrellas wide. As we wondered through business as usual vehicles small enough to work in the streets, bikes perched on steps designed as a rack. Washing lines projected out from the upstairs balconies, steps jutting out at random to access postage size bits of garden with Fig and Pomegranate trees. On every corner step and stairwell cats lay sunbathing, washing or scrapping for food. The houses perched ever higher and higher onward and upward with intricate mosaic pebbled doorsteps of seabirds, dolphins and flowers. A beautiful place to visit. Then back to the harbour and 3.15 prompt up anchor and away.

Anti Skeet Kit

Having been held prisoner by blood seeking insects, buzzing and banging in the night, power cuts and no water I am now ready for all eventualities.
Greek phrase book in case  have to phone or shout for help and need a Greek Man.
Phone as close to outside wall as possible to ensure a signal short of standing on the roof
Torch for loss of power over a length of time if and when my back up electric power units fail
Plug ins first line of defense, Insect spray second line of defense and not in the picture Flip Flops for bashing the buggers
Antihistamine cream for when they succeed
Tablet for mifi connection more successful for help requests than Phone and a source of entertainment when lying in wait
Air conditioning controller ready to blast out cool air and high rate of flow to send them packing
and water bottles just in case
Map in case I need to rendezvous or direct someone to my place.

Never had to go to these lengths in the UK for a goodnights sleep and yes I have got mosquito nets on all windows but the buggers hitch a lift in anytime on me or the cats.

ps glasses cos I can't read without them

There's Life in that old road

Day and night the Epar Road sees life to and from Kefalos and beyond. As I sit on my patio, in my lounge or look out the bedroom window there it is.

The Early morning Garbage collections two even three times a week, The Club Robinson Bus picking up it's workers.The School Bus taking the teenagers to Andimachia,The Tingaki Express, the Mastichari, Mamaris equivalent for early pick ups or late drop offs. The Hotel and airport pick ups. The Kos Bus.

The tour Bus JD or Kefalos Tours out or back from a day of trips round the Island or the night bus for the Sunset tours to Agios Theologos or Zia, the shopping in Kos or Zia excursions or Greek Night a chance to dance the night away to Bouzuki. Or the bus that will take you to the Boat for Barbecue and beach or three Islands.

The cars , the rentals shiny new and clean, The Ikos minis, The Big I've made it Black cars, the SUV,s so I've got Olive Trees man, the little beaten up Fiat Pandas with whole families or the Priest off to church or the beach. The Flat Bed's laden with bits,for the land or to feed the animals or the Beehives about to be re-located to pastures new or Goats shipped off for …..I don't like to think.

The delivery trucks of Peris' brothers and their drinks, the Cheese Man, The 'Fruit is lovely fresh and cheap Van', The any old garden furniture van or the garden plants, small olive trees, herbs Basil, Rosemary Mint.

The Fire Truck just checking and occasionally the Police and Ambulance

White Van man, The Iron man, Manolis Anthoulis catch me if you can man, Lafarge Baton the Concrete man, The Butcher, the Baker, even the Candlestick Maker for the Church of course van it all goes past..

The Scooters and peds all day long zip up and down, Quads, Buggies still easier than Shank's Pony.

But up and down they go dressed for the beach doing battle with Flamingos and sharks as the wind tries to whip the Lilo's out of their hands. A quick trot down and a slow laborious one up. I want to shout at those intrepid walkers making their way up to the Village at Midday, 'don't do it'. There are the white bodies just arrived, the red ones not been here long but want to catch the rays, The covered up ones who spent too long in the sun or sensible build up to it ones. The eager children, the pushers and buggies and even the occasional mobility scooter.

At night the tone changes, dressed to impress, party or dine, the mosquitos fly over, heady on perfume not sure about the anti skeet sprays and while some people repel, others are plagued with the biters wearing a halo of critters.

As the day quietens down the cats and dogs cross the road, chickens pop out for a morsel, Goats and the solitary Cow get relocated in their field, who knows what they are eating but if it's wild dry grasses and weeds could they come up a bit higher and clear my garden. Whatever time of day that road sees it all and so do I if I just sit and watch.

That's some backyard

A bit blustery today as I drove down to Agios Theologos. The road has some tight curves as it hugs the contours of the mountain down towards the rocky outcrop that is my final destination. As I passed the water fountain where the Old Shepherd sometimes sits watching his flock in an old cane chair I was fooled into to thinking they were no where to be seen. But ready with the brakes out popped a few stragglers to join the herd sheltering from the sun whilst hugging the exposed rock face on my left. Nothing to do but wait as the ambled across, nibbling away at vegetation.

Three men dressed in full Beekeepers outfits sat in the front of a lorry having a cigarette and I made a note to self to buy some on the way back. Dragonflies flitted across the wild thyme meadows and birds took off as I stopped to photograph them. Not for them to appear on my Facebook page.

And as I pulled up at the beach , couldn't wait to get out a photograph of the Goats. They weren't having it either as 'Mr I'm in charge' had me clearly set in his sights with head bowed low as he came towards me and bloody great horns. I ran for the car he ran off down to the beach, sorry for disturbing any sunbathers.

I did stop for honey and a sampling on the way back. Couldn't help notice the advert on the side of the Lorry. Honey from our Yard. Well that's some backyard they've got if you've ever ventured down to Agios Theologos